Cool, Elegant and Timeless—Alaïa's East-West Bag Is an Icon in the Making

Cool, elegant and timeless—Alaïa’s Le Teckel bag has invoked a seismic shift in the handbag space ever since it was first spotted on the Spring/Summer 2024 runways. The sharp east-west style immediately caught the eye of fashion insiders, and so followed a thousand dupes and the revival of a unique silhouette across the industry. With expert design, luxurious fabrics and a bold sculptural shape, what could have been a fleeting It bag has already become a legacy buy.

Rarely does a day go by when I don’t catch sight of the Le Teckel bag. In part, that’s due to how eye-catching the bag is. A striking horizontal body with those instantly identifiable straps—when you see one, you know one. Naturally, the more affordable copies followed, but none have been able to capture the level of luxury, refinement and understated appeal that comes so naturally to the Alaïa label. A year on from its first unveiling, it’s evident that this bag isn’t a passing trend but a style we’ll be seeing a lot more of, worthy of becoming a treasured heirloom passed on to the next generation.

The Le Teckel feels incredibly true to the identity of Alaïa. Sculptural forms have always been a noticeable feature of the brand, with designs that play with bold proportion or texture. The key to Alaïa’s commercial success is that its pieces also remain elegant and wearable. Consider the recent buzz that erupted around the brand’s mesh flats— a style totally unique in design but easily paired with jeans and a T-shirt. They continue to be in favour many seasons on.

For the Le Teckel, the striking shape and handles of the bag instantly grab your attention but the simplicity of the design and refined finish bring a contrasting ease that cements its everyday appeal. It may not be a roomy tote, but this is not a bag you have to save for special occasions—it’s one that you’ll see fashion people carrying for coffee dates and shopping trips as well as dinners out.

As the best It bags do, since its launch the Le Teckel has undergone some transformations to suit more preferences. Shortened straps form the clutch version, ready to be tucked under an arm or carried in hand. A smaller version is offered for those who love the appeal of a petite accessory on their arm.

In line with the recent appetite for more spacious silhouettes, Alaïa has seamlessly maintained the identifiable feel of the Le Teckel in two larger forms; the flap and the tote. The former is smaller, with a leather flap that conceals an inner zip pocket, but is still recognisable by the thin long straps and subtle brand stamp. The tote is the largest offering, again nodding to the east-west silhouette but with a more spacious compartment for those who need to carry a little more.

Along with the variety in size comes a variety in shade and fabric. Smooth leather offerings sit alongside supple suede, as well as a few studded options for a tougher look. The classic shades of black, brown and neutrals are embraced in all sizes, with some pops of colour like light pastel blues and deep burgundies available too.