Amaryllis belladonna
A unique, late-flowering perennial, Amaryllis belladonna aka the belladonna lily, has pretty, trumpet-shaped flowers with a sweet fragrance, and is superb for adding late color to sunny gardens with warm, dry conditions.
Flowering in late summer and early fall, the buds appear on tall, bare stems bearing bold, outward-facing blooms in shades of burgundy, mauve, pink, rose, and white – with up to 12 magnificent blooms per stalk!


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Also called the Jersey lily or naked lady lily, these easy care bulbs are true Amaryllis, not to be confused with the Hippeastrum varieties commonly referred to as amaryllis.
Hippeastrum are the showy bulbs that are forced indoors over the winter holidays.
The half-hardy bulbs can handle a light touch of frost but won’t survive hard frosts or prolonged freezes.
However, they grow well in containers so gardeners in cooler climes can enjoy them too, with winter protection.
Ready to learn more about growing Amaryllis belladonna? Here’s what I’ll cover:
After flowering, they produce lush rosettes of long, strappy foliage that forms handsome clumps of glossy, deep green leaves.
Growth is most active in fall and winter, with the foliage dying back in spring as they prepare for summer dormancy.
After resting for a few months, the bare, bud-laden stems appear in late summer, rising in dramatic stands like pink-tipped magic wands!
A member of the Amaryllidaceae family, A. belladonna is one of only two species in the Amaryllis genus.


Native to the southwestern tip of Africa, they add stately appeal to gardens, with each bulb producing one or two tall, bare stems in bright tones of burgundy to green, much like the coloration of rhubarb.
Larger, more mature bulbs can produce up to three stems each.
The naked stems rise boldly from the soil, crowned with multiple, trumpet shaped flowers of magenta, mauve, peach, pale to rosy pink, nearly red, or creamy white.
The nectar-rich blooms last for six to eight weeks and release a sweet fragrance, attracting an abundance of pollinators including bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds.
Quick Look
Common name(s): Belladonna lily, Jersey lily, naked lady, March lily
Plant type: Perennial flowering bulb
Hardiness (USDA Zone): 7-11
Native to: Cape Province, South Africa
Bloom time / season: Late summer, early fall
Exposure: Full sun
Soil type: Loose, organically-rich, well draining
Soil pH: 6.0-7.0, slightly acidic to neutral
Time to maturity: 5-10 years
Mature size: 1-6 ft wide x 1-6 ft high (depending on cultivar)
Best uses: Mixed beds, borders, containers, drifts, cutting, naturalized, or rock gardens
Taxonomy
Order: Asparagales
Family: Amaryllidaceae
Genus: Amaryllis
Species: Belladonna
In their native habitat, they grow among rocks in gritty or sandy soil in a climate characterized by warm, dry summers and mild, wet winters.
Hardy in USDA Zones 7 to 11, plants grow 24 to 36 inches tall and wide and the hefty bulbs grow in the range of six to 10 inches in diameter.
Easily damaged at temperatures below 35°F, in regions outside of their hardiness range, these plants can be grown in containers and moved indoors for winter.
And while they enjoy dry summer conditions, they need regular moisture in the fall and winter growing seasons.
The long, strappy leaves grow in dense rosettes after flowering, forming attractive clumps as they mature, dying back in spring. The foliage is not usually favored by grazing herbivores.


Introduced into cultivation in the early 1800s, the breeding of cultivated varieties and hybrids initially took place in Australia, producing color variations as well as a range of flower and plant sizes.
They’re not bothered by grazing herbivores like deer or rabbits as they contain toxic alkaloids such as lycorine in the bulbs and leaves.
But this also makes them toxic to pets and horses, and mildly toxic to humans – plant with care around children, cats, and dogs.
Today, these handsome plants have naturalized in coastal regions of Australia, California, Great Britain, and New Zealand.
How to Grow
Belladonna lilies have a striking appearance and provide a colorful impact to mixed beds, borders, large planters and pots, and massed into drifts.


They also make beautiful cut flowers for indoor arrangements and work in a variety of arid settings like scree slopes, naturalized areas and meadows, or gravel, rock, and xeric gardens.
They can be planted in late spring or early summer when the bulbs are dormant, or in autumn after blooming and just as the new growth appears.
Climate
Belladonna lily bulbs are half-hardy and in the colder end of their range, they may need protection from heavy frosts.
Plant them in protected areas such as in front of a south-facing wall or provide them with a two-to four-inch layer of winter mulch of chipped bark, shredded leaves, or straw.
Light and Soil
For best results, they need a full sun location in humus-rich soil with a gritty or sandy texture, excellent drainage, and a slightly acidic to neutral pH of 6.0 to 7.0.
Water
During the growing seasons of fall, winter, and early spring, water when the top inch of soil is dry, providing plants with one inch of water per week if rainfall is inadequate.


Keep the soil lightly moist but not waterlogged.
Withhold water while the plants are dormant, approximately from mid-spring to late summer or until the flower spikes emerge.
Allow the soil to dry out but don’t let it become bone dry. Give the bulbs a small sip of water when the soil is dry to a depth of about three inches.
Fertilizing
During the growing season, feed plants monthly with a liquid or water-soluble fertilizer with a balanced formula such as 10-10-10 NPK or one slightly lower in nitrogen, such as 5-10-10 NPK.
Alternatively, a balanced slow release formula can be applied in late summer after the flower stems emerge through the soil.
Container Care
To grow in containers, choose large pots – a minimum of 12 inches deep – with drainage holes and place in a sunny area.
I like to cover the drainage holes with two inches of porous materials like broken pottery or pebbles to ensure water moves freely and the soil doesn’t become soggy.


Fill your container with potting soil and enriched with one or two parts of organic matter such as compost, well-rotted manure, or worm castings.
Mix in one or two parts of grit to improve drainage, using materials like landscape sand, pea gravel, or stone chips.
Add in one or two tablespoons of bone meal for strong, fast root development.
Nestle bulbs into the soil and backfill until just the tops are peeking above the soil line, spacing them six to eight inches apart.
Firm the soil gently and water carefully but thoroughly to settle the bulbs in place.
Remember that soil in containers tends to dry out more quickly than garden soil so you may need to water more frequently.
Add a one- or two-inch top dressing of compost in midsummer and fertilize monthly during the growing season with a half-strength solution of a balanced, water soluble fertilizer.
Belladonna lilies perform best when undisturbed so allow container plants to become root bound, dividing only when necessary.
Where to Buy
Amaryllis belladonna bulbs can be a little elusive to source from garden centers and plant nurseries, but you can sometimes find them online at places that specialize in bulbs.


Amaryllis Belladonna
You can pick up a three-pack of bulbs from Walmart.
Maintenance
After flowering, the spent flower stalks can be snipped close to the base with clean, sharp shears to tidy the plants.


Leave the strappy foliage in place until it dies back naturally – the leaves are hard at work storing energy in the bulbs for the next growing season.
Wait until the foliage dies back completely before removing the dead, dry leaves.
Use clean, sharp snips to cut the leaves at soil level rather than pulling them to avoid dislodging the roots.
After the flower stems emerge, apply a one- to two-inch layer of mulch to help retain moisture and suppress weeds.
Handling the bulbs should be kept at a minimum to avoid flowering disruption.
If they need to be lifted and stored during dormancy, nestle them in a bed of peat moss and store in a cool, dark location – temperatures of 55 to 70°F are best for storage.
Propagation
You can propagate these plants from seed or by dividing offsets – both of these methods take a few years before the plants will bloom.
Alternatively you can purchase bulbs for planting.
Sowing Seeds
The pretty, pearly seeds are burgundy, pale pink, rosy purple, or white. If you collect your own seeds, plan to sow within a few months of collection.
And it should be noted that seeds from hybrids may not reproduce true to the parent plant.


To harvest seeds, wait until the flowers have died back and watch for seed pod development.
When the seed pods have dried and turned beige, gray, or tan, they’re ripe and ready for collection.
Use clean, sharp shears to cut the pods from the stems then place them in a paper bag to finish drying in a cool, dark, and dry environment.
Allow the seeds to dry completely for two to six weeks then gently remove them from the pods and store in a small envelope in a cool, dry drawer until you are ready to sow.
In spring when you’re ready to sow, soak the seeds in room temperature water for 24 hours to improve germination rates.
Prepare trays or starter pots with a moist starter soil mix.
Sow the seeds a quarter of an inch deep and keep the soil lightly moist until they germinate, which typically takes four to eight weeks.
A warm location is important as well, with temperatures of 70 to 75°F the ideal.
After they’ve sprouted, place trays in bright, indirect light or under grow lights to ensure they receive at least eight hours of light per day. Keep the soil consistently moist, but not soggy.
When they’re six to eight inches tall, transplant seedlings into small individual pots and set them in a protected site that receives morning sun and light afternoon shade.
Allow them to grow in their pots for a full year or two before transplanting out into the garden.
Offset Division
Offsets are the small baby bulbs or bulblets that emerge from the base of the parent bulb. And unlike most flowering bulbs, dividing A. belladonna offsets is not done while plants are dormant.


Autumn is the best time to divide and harvest offsets, or right after flowering when the plants are actively producing foliage.
Dividing and transplanting at any other time can cause stress and the absence of flowers for a few years afterwards.
At the end of the flowering period, give the bulbs a good soaking to help loosen the soil and make it easier to lift the large bulbs.
Use a spade to carefully lift the parent bulb and surrounding soil. Brush away the soil and separate large bulbs gently, retaining as many roots as possible.
Gently twist and pull away offsets or use a sterile, sharp knife to remove them cleanly.
Check the parent bulbs for soft spots or rot and trim away with a clean, sharp knife as needed.
Plant offsets into beds or small individual pots, setting them just below the soil and spacing six to eight inches apart.
Replant the larger parent bulbs 12 to 15 inches apart with the top of the bulb barely above the soil line.
Transplanting
Prepare a planting site by loosening the soil to a depth and width of 12 to 18 inches.
Mix in one or two shovelfuls of compost, well-rotted manure, or worm castings to add nutrients and increase tilth.
Add one or two shovelfuls of gritty material to improve drainage, using materials such as landscape sand, pea gravel, or stone chips.
For each bulb, add one tablespoon of bone meal to promote strong, healthy roots.
Plant bulbs so the top is just peeking above the soil line and spaced 12 to 15 inches apart.
Water gently but thoroughly to settle the bulbs in place.
Managing Pests and Disease
Belladonna lilies are mostly problem free when grown in ideal conditions, but there are a few pests to watch for.


Aphids, mealybugs, and spider mites are sapsucking pests that make occasional appearances and are generally easy to dispatch with a spray from the garden hose.
Repeat every couple of days as needed until the plants are clear.
Persistent infestations can be treated by spraying with a natural pesticide like neem oil.
If you need some neem oil you can find it available at Arbico Organics.


Bonide Neem Oil
Root rot can be a problem if the bulbs sit in wet soil during summer. Ensure they’re planted in well-draining soil and dry conditions while the bulbs are dormant.
If your summers are wet, you may have trouble growing A. belladonna as the bulbs will generally end up rotting.
A Late Summer Treat
Belladonna lilies are a treat in the late-season garden, the bold, bugle-like flowers rising majestically on colorful bare stems!


And they’re easily cultivated if you provide the right conditions.
Ensure they have an arid location through late spring and summer to keep the large bulbs dry and happy.
Then provide regular water in winter if rainfall is inadequate and fertilize monthly during the foliage stage.
After that, it’s just a matter of admiring their fragrant, floral finery!
Are you growing amaryllis belladonna? Let us know in the comments section below and feel free to share a picture!
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